Africa was mourning Michael Jackson’s death.
I heard about it the preceding night, thanks to a mix of insomnia and Facebook. But, the continent-proper was a day behind and reacting appropriately.
The bar in our hostel had MTV on. So, our alcohol marinated wake was backed by a short loop of music videos— mostly Thriller— interspersed with the white on black block letters:
MICHAEL JACKSON
1958 - 2009
In a word: hilarious
We were loudly cracking inappropriate jokes with our young Scottish friends. I mean, come on! The clubbing of a baby seal in Earth Song is dramatically timed with the percussion? And, the crash zooms in In the Closet are practically hyperactive!
Eventually, the TV was tuned to cricket. I took this as a sign to order another round.
At the bar, a young American woman was trying to close her tab; but, as you’ll find is common in countries with hyper-inflation, having difficulties making change. She had thrown out a few witty lines earlier, so I turned out my pockets to help her out. The transaction concluded, she turned to walked out.
But, in the threshold between our intoxicated space and the waiting cars, she paused and shouted back:
“Hey, I have these extra tickets to a concert tonight. Are you interested in coming?”
That’s how we met Allegra.
And, the tickets were for the Congolese sensation Koffi Olomide.
We piled into a sedan— three to the front seat, four to the back— with a United Nations of journalism students and their significant others. Our driver, a local reporter, took us through downtown Lusaka to the front of the main mall.
I assumed the show would be at the brightly lit and conveniently located bar in the front. But, then someone mentioned that was where the after-party would be held. We followed the crowds to the back of the mall…
And found an abandoned amusement park.
Lusaka, as a whole, has seen better days. The amusement park was no exception— it was completely dilapidated. However, the property had been fenced off and temporarily converted into an open air venue capable of holding the entire youth population of the city.
There was a lifted stage, bleachers, and an overpriced beer garden. I finally bought that round, as a way of thanks for the tickets, and thoroughly enjoyed the gig.
The performance was half musical and half variety show. Hopefully, the video does some justice to what we saw. Beware! The violent squatting hip-thrusts will forever sear themselves into your mind’s eye.
Of course, it wouldn’t be a night out if Chris and I didn’t get tired early; and, drunkenly stumble our way home through the “dangerous” downtown of an unfamiliar city.
