My happiest memory in Africa was made one lazy afternoon in Bahir Dar.
Faulkner and I were in good moods, strolling down the main drag on our way to the bus station, full of intentions to arrange the next leg of our trip. Walking, as I’m sure you’ve gathered by now, is always an adventure. Shopkeepers shout at you, beggars pull at your pantlegs, and touts hone their scams— it’s very eye-opening, how aware you become of your wallet after a few weeks.
We were probably laughing when a group of three young boys began walking along with us. “Mister, mister! Money! 1 birr!” I smiled and responded back with the Amharic negative, “aye… aye…”
Even responding, of course, I had fated myself to their company for at least another block. The kids switched tack, “Where are you from?” I grinned back, “Guess.”
“Guess?!” That gave them a pause, and they discussed among themselves.
“France!” “No.”
“Japan!” “Noooo.”
“New York!” “Close!”
“Oh, London!” “Closer!”
After a few minutes, everyone was laughing and having a good time. Our new friends were curious where we were headed. I responded, hesitantly asking for advice.
That’s how it started.
They procured us bus tickets at the local price— introducing us to companions onward into Gondor. And, they earned the ire of the station’s touts.
They helped us out by deflecting touts and pointing out scams in the market. And, they took kicks, punches and stones the head for their allegiance.
They invited us for coffee in their families’ homes, where I met half the region’s police force. And, they were enveloped with hugs by their clearly loving relations.
We took them out to a hilariously awkward dinner at one of the classiest restaurants in town. And, I saw real friendship when one of the boys wrapped a plate of food in his shirt, taking it outside to his hungry friend.
Chris and I gave them our cameras, and they went crazy shooting just about everything. Some of the most striking photos of the day were produced by amateurs. And, I saw the independent reinvention of the MySpace angle.
We parted ways a few hours after sundown. And, as promised, they saw us off the next day.
I hope I always remember the smiles and embraces of that morning.
